HIMALAYAN KINGDOM NEPAL
Himalayan
Kingdom NEPAL
- Himali
Thapa Das
‘The
antique charm of Kathmandu is unshakeable’. This is the thought that came to my
mind after my recent visit to the capital of the Himalayan kingdom after a
decade had passed since my prior visit. The devastating earthquake and the
political upheavals had not lessened the ‘awe’ effect that the place has on
visitors. Starting from the traditional welcome at Tribhuwan international
airport till the farewell dinner it was an enchanting experience.
The
major landmarks of Kathmandu, Pashupati Nath Temple and the Swayambhunath Stupa
are both robust places which are with no doubt an anthropology hub.
An
early morning visit to the Pashupati Nath temple is in the itinerary of
majority of the tourists. The flower sellers at the entrance showed a peculiar
sense of trust on the devotees. You choose your basket offer prayers and pay on
your way back. Quite impressive! I tried my best to take a sneak photograph of
the interiors of the temple but failed to do so. The security is so strong that
every nook and corner of the area inside the temple is under their surveillance.
Offering prayers and listening to different stories and beliefs can keep you
preoccupied for hours. The last rites after death performed on the bank of the
Bagmati River flowing behind the temple bring realisation that death is a part
of nature’s cycle.
People
of different backgrounds mingle in the peaceful sanctity of the Swayambhunath
stupa where the sound and sight of the fluttering prayer flags hung high up
gives a feeling that your prayers are indeed going to reach the heavenly abode.
The location of the place gives a view of the whole city and you can spend time
till dusk and see the city humdrum slowly convert into a field of fireflies
like appearance of the city lights.
The
modern city of Kathmandu we see today was actually different kingdoms Patan and
Lalitpur separated by river Bagmati which today is in a very pathetic
condition. Patan area is dotted with many temples and palaces of kings which
have been converted into museums. Hand crafted metal, stone work and wood work
are available in plenty. During my visit to Leh in India I was informed that
the brassware available there actually came from Nepal. My interest in this
matter was fulfilled when I visited the workshops of the ‘Newars’ who are legendary
craftsmen of Nepal.
Thamel
is an area in the heart of Kathmandu which has an ambience which makes it
unique from the other parts of the city. I selected it for my accommodation so
that I could experience the night life in a different way. You can stroll
through the lanes at ease as it is a ‘no traffic zone’. You pass by colourful
shops of artefacts, woollens and mountaineering gears. The aroma of the herbal
incense sticks wafts in the air and music and karaoke fills up the surroundings
as there are many eateries which put up cultural shows. I was invited to one
such place for dinner by a friend. The place was a big banquet hall full of
tourists and they served traditional ‘Thakkali’ cuisine along with a colourful
display of dances in nepali folk songs. You can join the group if you wish to shake a leg or two. I really loved the starter which was a platter of roasted chicken,
fried soybean seeds, momo, radish salad and soup. A local brew called aila was
served in small- one gulp at a time- clay pots and reminded me of a tequila
shot.
My
brief stay of two nights and two days had come to an end and I appreciated
myself to have come here. Great place, great hospitality. Yet, there was much
more to the city I could not explore as I was to move to Pokhara the next day.
Maybe I should plan another visit in future…..
Pokhara
is connected with Kathmandu by air as well as by road. I opted for the road so
that I could see more of Nepal. The road is good enough and it gives a
continuous view of the river Gandaki flowing beside it. After every kilometre
you can see suspension bridge connecting the hills on the opposite side of
road. I couldn’t resist taking a swing on one of them and take a click there.
A
stop at the Manokamana rope way adds another attraction to the journey to
Pokhara. The ropeway is interesting and takes you up crossing three hills of
terrain to reach a temple of goddess Durga .You can also relish a lunch of
local pulses vegetables and chicken as there are many eateries run by the
locals offering food cooked in a rustic manner.
By
the time I reached Pokhara it was late evening and a slight drizzle had
started. I had just enough time to stroll through the main road and find a
place for dinner. Next day at the early hours of morning I started for
Sarangkot in a car. You can also trek till there if you have time in hand. This
place is a hilltop and a viewpoint to watch the sun rise over Annapurna range.
The weather had not cleared yet so only a hazy view was possible.
The
most prominent spot of the local sight- seeing is the Nepal mountaineering
museum. In fact a major population of tourists visiting Nepal are trekkers and
mountaineers and the museum provides wide information in the field.
Finally
I headed for the major attraction of Pokhara the ‘Fewa Lake’. Life jacket on I
was waiting for my turn on the boat when thunder and lightning started. Boat
rides were stopped and I decided to have lunch to avoid time loss. Fish curry
on the menu card struck my attention. I came to know that a part of the lake
was used for pisciculture by the government and the fish was marketed. It
seemed to me a great initiative so that tourists can savour the lake fishes
without harming its biodiversity. I ordered for fish, mutton in local style and
rice and relished it fully.
Post
lunch I headed back to the lake and good news awaited. The boat rides had
resumed and the spectacular ‘fish tail’ peak overlooked us from the sky. My day
was made. It was a day well spent.
Pokhara
proved to me to be a place with a laid back attitude. You can come here with an
aim to go for one of the many trek routes available and come back to relax and
relish Nepali cuisine and culture.
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